Vertical Leader: Essential Knots

I’ve posted this before, but here’s a slightly updated version of a few essential knots a Vertical Cave and/or Mine Leader I’d suggest should have. Click on the knot below to get some further info in it’s use and how to tie it.

Alpine Butterfly

Supper useful knot ideal for rigging traverses or pitch heads (although doesn’t provide a belay point, more on that later…), isolating damaged sections, end knots (contrary to what some say; some recent testing supports this!) or an intermediated belay.

Worth learning to tie it this way as it makes it easier to measure where you need to tie  the knot (my opinion!!)

 

 

More on the Alpine butterfly for the rope geeks: http://www.ropelab.com.au/the-awesome-alpine-butterfly/ 

And some of the issues with tying it differently…

And some reasons to avoid the “Cavers Butterfly” alternative:

Figure of Eight
Equalised Bowlines

Clever way to bring 2 anchors together using a bowline

 

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